A must check subject is wheel alignment.
This is made even more important because there are no markings on the swingarm to compare on each side. I'm going to show you a method I first saw when changing the rear motor mounts and swingarm bearing in my Harley. We are going to use to laser levels to shoot lines between front and rear wheels, then measure the distance between these lines. it's a bit harder to do on this bike, but we were able to get within 1/8 inch and the chain looked like it was running true so we quit there and locked it down.
The first level goes on the rear brake rotor, and assumes it is really flat (not warped). you then level the rear wheel any way you can.
Then put a second laser level on the front brake rotor. You then turn the bars to make this level. This ensures (again assuming the rotor isn't warped) that the wheel is straight ahead. Go ahead and try it, it really is correct due to the angle of the steering geometry. if the steering neck were straight up and down, this wouldn't work, but because of the angled neck, the level of the rotor will change as you turn the wheel.
You'll now see something like this on the ground.
Now measure just behind the front wheel, and just in front of the rear wheel. Adjust the rear wheel tensioners until you have "the same" distance at both points. With this type of rear wheel adjustment, it's not easy or precise so close is your best bet.
And that's that for the laser method. Worked out pretty good and I'm satisfied that we are "close enough". Higher accuracy levels to get the wheels completely vertical would help, but I don't feel they are required.
Another way to check alignment is with a string, as is demonstrated in this Motorcyclist online link. Wheel alignment with a rope.